It’s Bad Idea to Stain Hickory and Maple Floors

Dear Rob: I want to stain my maple hardwood floor to match my stained maple kitchen cabinets, but my hardwood guy refuses saying that they stain will not take. I know my kitchen cabinets are stained maple, so what gives? Why is he pulling my leg?

-Jared H. from Orem, Utah

Dear Jared: Your installer is not really pulling your leg and is actually trying to make you happy with your floor and his workmanship.

In my own flooring business, Natural Wood Floors, I have been asked to stain many maple and hickory floors when refinishing, but I usually tell my customers no. That usually makes them unhappy, but the reason is that the grains in both maple and hickory flooring can be very hard in spots and very soft in others. When trying to stain these woods, the hard spots will not absorb the stain easily, and when that happens, you will have a light patch that looks blotchy.

When maple or hickory kitchen cabinets are stained, it is done in a factory controlled environment, and they use different types of fast dry, spray-on coatings. They are then dried with UV lights so that the color is consistent. These conditions are impossible to reproduce in your home because the coatings we use on site are gravity permeable and are slower drying.

This is what the Maple Flooring Manufacturers Association says about the subject:

“Due to the extremely tight cellular structure and variable grain patterns inherent in northern hard maple, the Maple Flooring Manufacturers Association (MFMA) does not recommend staining or bleaching maple strip flooring under any circumstances.

While small areas of individual flooring strips may accept stain without difficulty, it has been our experience that much of the maple surface will appear uneven and “blotchy” following the application of most stains or bleaching agents.

MFMA strongly suggests contacting your floor finish manufacturer directly for specific tinting product recommendations and application instructions.”

I think the risks are too high to move forward with staining maple and hickory, but if you are really dead set on the stain, there is a trick that some very skilled refinishers have used to successfully stain a hickory or maple floor that is called water-popping. When water-popping, the floor is actually dampened with a sponge so the grains can be opened. The wood is more likely to absorb stain. This is a very risky thing to do, and many younger installers have not been taught how to properly do this, so I still do not recommend it.

-Rob

10 Ways To Protect Your Hardwood Floor Finish

Dear Rob: We have an oak floor that was refinished a few years ago with water based coating (polyurethane?). The finish is in good shape, but is showing a little bit of wear. What is the best way to protect my hardwood floor?

-Linda P. from Royal Oak, Michigan.

Dear Linda: Unlike the old waxed floors, which needed a lot of coats of wax and buffing on a regular basis, cleaning polyurethane floors is very easy.

In general, the best way to maintain a polyurethane finished hardwood floor is to keep the floor free from dust and moisture, and to clean it often. Dogs, shoes, children and moisture are the biggest hazards your floor will face. Here are my 10 favorite tips for protecting your hardwood floor:

1. Leave your shoes, high-heels, and boots at the door. Shoes can track dirt and grime onto your floor, and when you walk, that dirt acts like sandpaper and will wear and scratch your floor. Not wearing shoes on your hardwood floor is the best thing to do to protect your floor. High-heeled shoes can actually leave dents in a hardwood floors, so it is a good idea to ban them from your floor.
2. Use Walk Off Mats and Runners. Heavy traffic areas and entry points receive the most amount of wear on a hardwood floor. It’s a good idea to use “walk-off” mats or runners at the entry points and in high traffic areas such as hallways and the kitchen. Make sure to use a rug pad underneath any mats or runners that have a burlap or rough backing. These too can dull the finish.
3. Trim pets claws weekly. Pets can scratch floors, so keep their claws trimmed weekly. The bigger the dog, the more likely the damage will be. Even a small dog’s claws can scratch wood floors under the wrong circumstances.
4. Keep the floor dry and pick up any spills immediately. Any type of wood floor can be damaged by water or other spills. If liquid gets on your floor, wipe it up as soon as possible to avoid warping or spotting. Moisture can warp boards and crack the finish. Polyurethane floors are not waterproof. The wood on the bottom and sides of flooring is completely raw. Moisture can easily seep between the gaps in boards and warp wood from underneath.
5. Do not slide or drag furniture across a wood floor. Wood finishes can scratch and mar easily when you slide a piece of furniture across them, especially with the weight from a couch, table or bookshelf. It is a good idea to apply felt furniture pads on the feet of any piece of furniture that you plan put on your hardwood floors. They can be purchased at a local hardware store or home center.
6. Dust/sweep hardwood floors often. Keeping a hardwood floor free from dust extends its life dramatically. I recommend using a very soft bristle broom or microfiber dust mop. You should dust your floor several times per week, or whenever there is dust you can feel on your floor. You can also use a vacuum if there is way to shut the beater bar off. A vacuum cleaner with a beater bar can damage your floor.
7. Use very little water when cleaning your floor. Use a very slightly damp mop when mopping polyurethane wood floors, since excess water can seep into seams and ruin a wood floor. I find more often than not, people use too much water, so I recommend simply using a spray on cleaner and microfiber mop like the Bona Hardwood Spray Mop.
   For really sticky spots, use a water dampened rag or sponge to clean them by hand and immediately dry them with a paper towel.
8. Do not use wax or polyurethane polishes. You would not believe how many polyurethane floors have been ruined by homeowners innocently using some “miracle” cleaner, restorer or polish that they saw on TV. Most of these cleaners have chemicals that will permanently streak or stain your floor. If you use these products, you will never be able to do a maintenance coat (aka “screen and coat”) on your floor, because they prevent the new finish from properly adhering.
9. Do not use ammonia or vinegar to clean your floor. I know that these product can effectively clean a hardwood floor, but if you use too much water or too much vinegar, you can dull the finish or ruin the floor. Therefore, I say stick to professional hardwood floor cleaners.
10. Follow manufacturer recommendations. Beside everything you have read here, always follow your wood floor or finish manufacturer’s recommendations on caring for your floor. If for no other reason, it may preserve and protect your warranty.

-Rob

Ceramic Tile Installation for Beginners

Dear Rob:

I want to install ceramic tile in my kitchen, how hard would it be for me to do it myself?

-Patti (With An I)

Dear Patti (With An I):

That is a great question. The answer depends on a few things: How handy are you? Do you own tools? Are you comfortable with power tools? Are you under a tight deadline to complete your project? What is your budget?

While installing tile in an empty, square room is relatively simple, installing tile can become much more complicated if your room is unusually shaped, or you have plumbing, cabinets, columns or other items you need to work around. Proper tile installation involves several steps, including prepping the sub floor, marking the layout, laying down a mortar bed, installing underlayment (Backerboard), taping and filling the seams, cutting and laying tile, grouting, cleaning, caulking (for transitions) and sealing.

While tile is a project many homeowners tackle with good success, if you are in a real big hurry or are not that confident with using power tools, I would recommend hiring a reputable professional. Most anybody can do tile work if they are patient, willing to a take a lot of time learning how to do the job right, and use the right tools. For reference, the following is a list of tools that you will probably need to buy, rent or borrow to do your job:

1. Electric Tile Saw
2. Bucket
3. Mortar Mixer (looks like an oversized egg beater)
4. Drill with underlayment bits
5. Spiral Saw (to cut holes for plumbing)
6. Chalk Line
7. Trowels
8. Spacers
9. Level
10. T-Square

-Rob